Fresh catch: local sea bass

Spring is here, which means that local sea bass season is in full swing. We love this fish in this rustic spring dish with ramps and cockles: Rinse 2 lb cockles in cold water, washing away any sand. With a paper towel pat dry 4 sea bass fillets. Halve fillets and season with salt and pepper. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Cut half a bunch of asparagus into bite-size lengths, then add to pot and blanch for 30 seconds. Drain and let cool. Place a Dutch oven or large deep pan over medium heat and add 5 tbsp olive oil. Toss in 1 bunch sliced ramps and cook 1 minute. Nestle fish into pan, followed by the cockles. Pour in 1/2 c white wine and cover. After 3-4 minutes, turn heat to low and let simmer until seafood is cooked, another 6-7 minutes. Gently fold in asparagus. Let rest a minute before arranging on a large serving platter.